Rainbows and Parties

Well, just what have we been up to the last few days? We'll tell you. The students all did really well on their exam... the lowest score was 95%! They get quite competitive, so that even if one point is missed, they think it's not quite good enough... "next time I'll be #1!".

For the time being, the radio appearance has been postponed, but we'll keep you posted. Andy got in touch with the director of rehab at the local hospital and will be going for a tour on Friday. We also wandered up to the Rainbow orphanage this past Monday. A health visitor from England was there and immediately identified several children who need help. We returned yesterday for Andy to begin his four assessments... just the tip of the iceberg, we suspect. The orphanage is interesting; 22 children in a family home. There's so little space that some of them share a bed. Volunteers come and go; some for a few days, some a few months. They allow anyone to come visit without any kind of screening or background check which seems dodgy, but perhaps the need for funds is so great that they can't afford to do it any other way. We met two Aussie ladies that are now friends; they are volunteering at the orphanage for a week. We'll probably grab a bite to eat with them tonight after Andy does more work there (after our work at the clinic). Yesterday they came and received student massages and were impressed.

Last evening we attended the second wedding anniversary party of our Nepali friends. They really splashed out with way too much food and drink, and we sincerely hope it wasn't on our account.... puts one in a bit of a cultural 'what to do?' sort of bind. It was lovely they made such an effort, anyway. We weren't sure what to get them, so decided to get them what they wanted: Cadburys hot chocolate and a Kylie Minogue cd.

Our plans to go to Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha, are on hold as there are strikes on there... no traffic in or out. Some have been stranded there for 6 days.. not a situation we want to get involved in. Time will tell. We can always go on our next visit.

We'll sign off for now.

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"The happier we are , the less we hate." (Fishboy)

Mashed potato, the island temple, and Bandipur

Well, it's time for another update.
We had our Nepali friends over to prepare typical Western food .... it was actually quite difficult to find all the ingredients to make a tuna melt sandwich and mashed potatoes. We gave up on a more glamorous desert, instead locating over-priced chocolate chip and oreo cookies/biscuits. The cost to prepare this 'feast' was actually more (way more) than if we had just taken them to a nice tourist restaurant for a pizza and a cold coke ... but oh well. One of the complications is (as in all Nepal) there is only periodic power - sometimes we have if for most of the day, and at other times for just a few hours. It pretty predicably goes off at around 8pm each night. Therefore, there is no refridgeration in our apartment. Bigger places and some stores/restaurants have a generatoR (and we have one at the clinic that we have got quite adapt at hooking up when there are paying tourists!), but you have to be careful ... so no fresh cheese, butter or ice cream or the like while we are here. Anyway the meal was (we think) a success. They seemed to particularly like the Cadbury's hot chocolate we had managed to discover!!!

Since then, we have been busy at the clinic with training and helping the running. The local manager has been out due to a family emergency, so we have also been managing the books and the cash. Bit of an adding error certainly added to the stress! But the mistake was discovered (phew). The students complete their big test for ending a complete unit tomorrow. This is important to them as it is linked to their continued scholarship for the training. We have also been doing some additional tuition with one of the students, practising English skills and helping the organizational parts too. The clinic has been quite busy, with the three qualified therapists getting quite booked up. So all is going well.

Other news ... one evening we hired a row boat to take us to the Varahi Mandir temple, which is on an island in the lake - dedicated to Vishnu in a boar incarnation. We ran into Yudon the Tibetan refugee (she recognized us!) and chatted for a while. The temple trip was quite fun except for the drunk Western tourists who thought it was all a bit of a laugh and kept shouting 'ommmmm' to the worshippers.

Actually working alongside the Nepali people, it is quite amazing how ignorant, rude and stupid some Western tourists are - I have been shocked sometimes but held my tongue (itself quite shocking, I know) as we don't want any negative image for the clinic. The therapists just shrug it off with a smile, and seem to be surprised we would think it would be any different ... is that sad or wise? You decide. But we have also met some very sweet and caring tourists who seem to be doing what they can to help too, bringing in other tourists, passing on marketing leaflets and writing to Lonely Planet to tell them about us. Evan and one of the therapist spoke at length to a free lance journalist who is writing a piece for a Canadian publication ... and Evan may also be on Nepali radio later this week too ... we'll see!!!

Today, (our weekly day off) we hired a car to visit the ancient town of Bandipur - it is quite time consuming to get there by public transport, and would take 2-3 days to be able to visit. So we haggled and bargained and got a car to take us the 2 1/2 hours there to visit - it was great! The town is up in the mountains, and no cars/vehicles are allowed inside the town. The buildings are all old Newari style that are very old but are being restored and protected with the proceeds from the light stream of tourists that actually make it there. We were able to take one of the therapists with us and had a great time exploring and describing it to him. He seemd to enjoy feeling the intricate wooden carvings and visiting the different temples we saw, including one that houses a 16th century sacred sword brought out once a year to sacrifice some sheep. There were some ominous lookiing chicken feathers stuck to the doorway at the entrance to the temple ...

After being quite adventurous with sampling bits and pieces from local stalls (had a little bit of water buffalo today to try for example) we had decided to now exericse a little more caution over the next week ... (enough said!). One of the great things about being here is that we are getting to know the local people well, and now seem to spend time each day talking and laughing with the local waiters and money changer and shop keepers. A really rewarding and enriching experience.

Anyway, enough for now. Always more to tell. Bag shopping in the local bazaar (Ev got a Disel knock off for about $5); trying local dishes; birdwatching in the park; contacting local orphanages and charities (should be visiting one or two orphanges later this week - hope to use some of the donation money from friends and family there) and of course the news of Evan going national!!! Next Time!!

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"Nothing is exciting if you know what the outcome is going to be." (Joseph Campbell)

Kick boxing journalists and we find out why we are so clever

We are so enjoying our time in Nepal. It is a wonderful country and we are both surprised we like it as much as we do. Next blog we will tell you why ....

However, more importantly our Nepail movie experience .....
Saturday was our day off, so we met up with the two blind therapists we have become friends with to go to the local movie theatre - a morning showing of what apparently is The Big Movie of the moment - sounds like "sel-see-a" (which is roughly translated as relationships). We had to go in the morning as the therapists work everday from around 11:00. Anyway, after another awakening cup of Nepali coffee at their apartment (we are now braving local buses by ourselves - and not getting overcharged to boot - quite an accomplishment in itself really) (Actually Evan was quite impressive shouting "rocknus" to get the bus to stop at the right place... (Andy was watching the cows at the time)) we headed off to the movie theatre. Extremely busy, but got more pricey seats in the balcony (30 rupees (=25c/20p) and settled down. It was really really fun. We described the on-screen action - "The girl is running down the street" "The hero is having his legs hacked off" etc.. while they translated the words "Ah, I think she is going to die. Yes, I think she is to commit suicide". Worries about making too much noise were quickly gone as the packed theatre is more of a community event - so we booed the bad guys, hooted and hollered with the 'sexy dancing' (oh yes, we got sexy dancing and singing as well as blood, action, romance and comedy) and cheered when the heros dashed in to save the girls again.
Very complicated plot, basically two heros and two heroines/damsels in distress. Hero 1 was a journalist who was a mean kick boxer and all around most excellent street fighter. Really quite impressive in a journalist - not your Peter Sissons/Peter Jennings type journalist. Hero 2 was more your everyday kind of guy (but also really good at fighting - perhaps not quite as good as the journalist who could stop blades with his hands and stuff like that). Anyway, best bits were hero 1 coming out of a coma to stop the thugs beating his mother up, hero 2 taking the sword intended for the main heroine and dying dramatically, and perhaps the best of all, was heroine 2 (after kissing hero 2 with lips BEFORE marriage) quickly being overcome with 'blood cancer' and dropping dead with a trail of blood from her mouth. The moral here, boys and girls ..... What was quite interesting was the cultural differences in our expectations of a movie. In the USA/UK, elderly mothers don't get beaten by thugs, heroines don't actually get raped, heros and heroines don't die, and everything doesn't stop for a song and a bout of sexy dancing from the heroines. Anyway, had a brilliant time. Much fun. Highly recommended. Andy can also sing the theme tune if anyone is interested......

After the movie, we explored some of the old town which is pretty much un-touristed. Spent some time at a little musuem explaing about the local customs and culture, and then wandered around - old temples, old newari style buildings, local shops. One of the temples (200 years + old) had amazingly erotic carvings all around it ... not just the usual shabang, but solo, threesomes, and animal-human pairings .... (yes, we took some detailed snaps ........ :>).

Back at the clinic, the students continue to progress - another test today on fractures, dislocations and sprain/strains. They are all doing well and so much fun to work with - so motivated. We were having them each pose questions to us and the other students about the material, and if they asked us a questions we couldn't answer they would get an extra point in the pop quiz. One of the female students asked us "Which one of you is not a massage therapist?" which was quite funny. An intersting (joke) theory proposed by one of the male students as to why we're so smart (?!) was that we are clever because we are fat! An interesting theory. Also possibly a really fun research project....

We plan to have our new friends over for some good old fashioned Western food tomorrow - mashed potatoes and tuna melts!!!! Let's see what they think of that. We have also been invited to a wedding anniversary next week!

Until next time; we are very well and very happy!

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"Most of us have an idea of how we think our days should go. We want nights of undisturbed sleep, regular meals and calm homes with a certain amount of order. But in our quest for order we sometimes overlook the fact that some of the most important moments of our lives our unplanned. Through the cracks in our days often come life and love, and moments of connection." (Mary Beth Davidson)

Is everyone in the USA as fat as you are? !!!!!!!!!!

Namaste!

Our work at the clinic has been progressing well. The students were tested on the vascular system, and three of the four did very well. Our fourth student has been coming in for extra tuition with Andy before class starts, so hopefully he will pass soon. The students are now onto their next lesson, and are learning about fractures, dislocations, sprains and strains. We keep trying to come up with new ways for them to learn and understand the information, so today we had the students lead quizzes on each other and also to test us on our knowledge!!! We did well (luckily...). All the students are also doing much better with their practical skills, and we are planning a student clinic next week for more practice on other bodies! Plus it is a great way to continue to build relationships with the community. Many of the local shops and restaurants are very supportive of the clinic, and many display posters or send tourists our way. We talk with the owners and the workers at every opportunity.

Evan has also been working with each of the qualified therapists to share skills and offer more advanced clinical education. All three have been motivated and have been participating. Their level of skill is very high. Andy has continued to work with the semi-qualified therapist to help him pass his final theory classes, and he is moving on too. The clinic has started to get busier and we have had up to 10 massage clients a day. Can be quite a juggling act with rooms and massage tables and space with the students to practice too.

We have also had an enjoyable week socially. Two of the qualified therapists who are a couple, invited us to their apartment in the university district. We travelled through the less touristed parts on public bus and met with some members of their families. They supplied us with fresh fruit (bananas and mangoes!! So much tastier here!!) and Nepali coffee (strong and sweet). Then we were taken for a short tour, including of the university where one of the students is also completing her bachelors degree.

We were quite humbled and honored to then be taken out to a local restaurant where they insisted on buying us dinner - we were treated to chowmein (Nepali style = very very spicy!), pakuadas and chilli potatoes, plus the local drink called lassi - made with bananas, curd and ice. All very delicious and much fun. They were quite interested to know if everyone in the USA is as fat as us ... little do they know!!!! We even told them about the Biggest Loser TV show where fat people lose weight to compete to win a big cash prize!!! Oh, the cultural differences!!! We seemed to be quite the show ourselves at the restaurant - two white foreigners and two blind Nepalis conversing and laughing in English!!

So, tomorrow (Saturday) is our one day off. We are going to meet up with our new friends to go to a Nepali movie. Our plan with them is as follows - they will translate the language for us and we will tell them what is happening on the screen!! Should be interesting!! After the movie, they will be working at the clinic and we plan to explore the old part of Pokhara some more (i.e. the parts where they don't have tourists). So who knows what we'll be up to tomorrow, but we're sure it will be very interesting.

That's it for now. Having a great (but tiring) time.

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"Nothing splendid has ever been achieved except by those who dared believe that something inside them was superior to circumstances." (Bruce Fairchild Barton)

Will we get to Chitwan?

The journey to Chitwan National Park was very, very eventful; the bus we were scheduled on was cancelled at the last minute, so Kul came speeding to the station in his car to tell us he had to arrange something else... he then sped away. Not 5 minutes later, he's back... only he hadn't made it clear he would be back, so Andy had run back to the restroom. We had 5 minutes to get to another station for another bus. Evan ran to get Andy, both ran back to Kul's car, and we sped off to be quickly pushed onto a bus without tickets. On being asked for said tickets by the conductor, Evan simply said we didn't have them... Nanohana Lodge (Kul's hotel) arranged it. This seemd to satisfy him. We were scheduled to meet Temple Tiger Lodge (our place in Chitwan) staff at a city called Narayangat. The bus dropped us off, and there was nobody to meet us... we had no idea where to go, and we had arrived on the "wrong" bus, so chances are the staff members weren't looking for us in the right place. We wandered up and down the road a bit to no avail. Well, randomly, this old man says "you go Temple Tiger?" "Yes." He points to some unknown location across the street. We look clueless. He motions for us to wait. He comes back with another man who asks again about Temple Tiger and we again affirm that is our destination. Anyway, we do find the transfer staff, and we are both suspicious that the other is not who they say they are. In the end, we in fact make it to our jungle lodge by off road jeep with dodgy steering and overheating radiator and then dugout canoe.

It's fantastic... the real deal... thatch huts in the middle of nowhere. We aren't there for an hour before our first safari on elephant back. We see 10 to 15 rhinos, 2 types of monkey, and beautiful birds. The food is delicious at the lodge; typical Neplai lunches and western style breakfasts and dinners. Night time on the viewing deck overlooking the wetlands is great; sounds of rhinos eating while watching the fireflies.

Day two is our full day there. We go on another elephant safari, a jeep and boat safari, and a jungle walk. We saw: more rhinos, peacock (in flight), barking deer, spotted deer, elephants, paradise flycatcher, and gharial crocodiles (an endangered species). On our jungle walk we saw a bear cave and a tiger footprint. We think we were relieved to have carried on in the opposite direction, though it would be fantastic to see a tiger. Took Andy this long to realize our nightly escort to our hut wasn't excellent service but to ensure we weren't attacked by a tiger, rhino, or sloth bear.

Leaving the lodge today, we saw a jackal. Our trip back was less eventful, though we were never issued paper tickets due to all the fuss, so that was interesting... all worked out, though...as these things seem to here. Andy took 2 muscle relaxants, so despite the extremely bumpy and swerving ride, he slept most the way, slapping his own face to wake himself up near the end.
Chitwan was truly amazing. We could have stayed longer. So peaceful. Really glad, though to be back in Pokhara. Looking forward to teaching tomorrow.

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"It's time to have fun and the rest will follow. Boredom is the enemy, not some abstract failure." (Timothy Ferris)

Evan takes a risk and the Himalayas up close

Another day ... another update ... another amazing experience.

We are really enjoying our work at the clinic - all the students are progressing and settling in to working with us and our style. The clinic was busy yesterday as we had a group of blind Swedish tourists come by with the representaive of the Nepali Blind Association. The Swedes are helping a project in Kathmandu to train blind musicians so they can work in restaurants and make a living. Our students are completing the instruction in cardio-vascular theory and are ready to move onto surface anatomy and more practical.

After an eventful wind storm the previous night, and dramatic thunder and lightning last night, we woke up to the most amazing and wonderful view this morning. The Himalyas were as clear as day in a bright clear blue sky. Picture perfect from our apartment windows. Heading down for breakfast, we were met by Kul (local manager) who told us that this was the best opportunity to see them. Now! So with no further a-do, we were off in a taxi up to Sarangkot, a nearby village up in the foothills for just an amazing view. Wait until we bore you with the pictures!!!! Mountains everywhere!!!! Absolutely, absolutely fabulous.

Evan also braved the local barber this afternoon, despite Andy's on and off need to discuss the blood and gore of the Sweeny Todd movie, and promising him that he would be made into a vegetarian pie (and not a meat one)if his throat was slit (we like to support one another in our ventures, you understand). So, Evan had a Nepali haircut and a straight edge razor shave. And actually, the haircut looks better than a cheap USA cut, and it only cost 120 rs ($1.50) for a haircut, shave and head massage. Not bad..... Meanwhile, Andy practised Nepali with the owner and learnt about Indian massage.

We have class tomorrow and then have three days off to go to the Royal Chitwan National Park for our safari and jungle experience......

Having a great time. the students, therapists and clinic are wonderful, and you really haven't lived until you have played Ludo with a blind Nepali (IN Nepali language too.....) (but haven't won yet) (yet).

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"Each day is valuable... Do not compare it with a dragon's bright pearl. A dragon's pearl may be found. But this day out of a hundred years cannot be retrieved once it is lost." (Dogen, Zen Master (1242))

We meet a Tibetan refugee and go to a blind cricket match

Right...so... just after our last post, we ran into a Tibetan refugee named Yudon who we'd met on our way back from the temple. She was ever so nice, and we'd promised to have a look at her wares; lovely handmade bracelets and necklaces. We sat down with her and had a chat. Her family came here in 1959 to escape the Chinese who now have posession of her country; she hopes they will give it back someday. She lives outside Pokhara in a refugee camp. Looking at the jewelry took a while as it was hard to choose, but, eventually, 10 bracelets and a necklace were chosen... some for us, some as gifts. She seemed surprised at how quickly we came to an agreed upon price, so perhaps we "overpaid," but the conversation with her was beyond a price tag, and we were quite satisfied.

Class yesterday and today went very well. We are definitely getting into a groove with it; Andy is developing creative ways to describe strange anatomical terms, and Evan enjoys planning the lessons and watching the students "I get it" faces. Good progress being made in both theory and practical work... though lots of work yet to do.

This morning was brilliant! We got up at 5:30am and met one of our students outside the clinic. On his invitaion, we were joining him to watch the womens blind cricket team of Pokhara practice. There are 9 countries involved in the league, both men and women's teams. The women have a tournament coming up in a few days. They play with a ball that rattles, and it is amazing to see how they bowl, hit, and trap/catch the ball. We were really honored and moved to be invited, and thoroughly enjoyed not only watching practice, but being guided by our blind student on the public buses of Pokhara. We met the association president, vice president (our student), and men and women's team captains. We donated some of the funds given to us by people back home (US/England) to support this as a recently planned national tournament was cancelled due to lack of funding. There is very, very little support for the blind here, and this is so important to them... they were all obviously taking a lot of joy from playing the game.

As a side note, our Nepali practice with the students and staff at the clinic is also progressing... also with lots (and lots) of work yet to do.

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"Life is not holding a good hand; life is playing a poor hand well." (Danish proverb)

The students and the clinic and a bit of a hike

Another day ... another update. So much has been happening.....

We started working with the students yesterday after being oriented to the clinic and the qualified therapists the day before. We had a blast! We both taught theory to the students in the morning together - working on the cardio-vascular system. Not only are they learning in English, but because they are blind we cannot use pictures or diagrams to help teach them - imagine learning the cardio-vascular system in a foreign language without the use of diagrams!!! It's tricky!! How does one explain what bi-concave is? (red blood cell). The students are all very nice and happy to have some teachers it seems - after we leave they will have no more massage therapy schooling until July. Of course, the sooner they qualify, the sooner they can start earning money - so it is a very important thing to them.

In the afternoon, Evan is teaching practical massage therapy techniques with the students, and Andy is working indivdually with a more advanced student on his theory (lymphatic system ... ohhh!) and also working on developing better English skills. (The student, not Andy ... though there are some out there that would argue differently).

The clinic is just off the main drag around the lake in Pokhara - there are three treatment rooms - one is used by the students and the other two by the three qualified therapists. We are also starting to look into ways that we can help them with marketing and advertising.

There are many needs here, so the dontations that people gave to us are being used to fill some of these gaps - such as to make raised models of biological systems to help with learning, some basic stationery supplies (like a file folder/binder that closes!) and such.

Today there was a bus strike and so unfortunately the students could not get to the clinic - so we are working with them on Saturday instead so as they don't miss out. Alderwood Park and Chrysalis Spa take note ... a 7 day work week!!! But don't get any ideas ......

So today because of the stike, we went on a hike to the World Peace Pagoda built by Buddhist monks. In true Andy and Evan style we somehow wandered off the path, and got quite lost but eventually made it - very hard work because of the altitiude. But the reward was a cold coke out of the bottle sitting under Tibetan prayer flags looking up at the temple! Nice!!! We headed back another way, meeting women with large baskets of wood and leaves strapped to their foreheads, and then a brief meeting with two boys who wanted to know our names ... after which as we headed down the mountain we heard the echo of "Evanandyevanandy ha ha ha" as we went on!!!! THIS is the life!

At the bottom of this path we got a boat across the lake - it was a bit choppy so Evan had to help the boatman row! His 'Man Against Nature' routine practiced with Nick in Monterey came in handy! (It wasn't that bad!...) - but a nice trip across the lake past a little temple dedicated to Vishnu (in his boar incarnation) on an island in the middle of the lake. There are gods everywhere. And cows freely roam the streets and nose into garbage bins or sleep in the road quite happily. They are very respected (might be an incarnation of a god so you have to be careful) - if you kill a cow (say with your car, which would be very easy to do actually) you go to prision!!! But we digress ...

In short - loving it - LOVING IT! - what a great place and people - and the clinic is a wonderful place to be helping. More information is at http://www.seeinghandsnepal.org/.

More later ....

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"I wept because I had no shoes until I saw a man who had no feet." (Persian proverb)

The Best Cup of Mint Tea Ever

Greetings from Pokhara! We arrived yesterday after a beautiful bus ride through the Nepali countryside. Just beforehand we visited the former palace grounds in Kathmandu to attempt a flying fox sighting as it was still early... alas, no luck. The 7 hour journey was actually quite enjoyable; loads of villages, rice patty fields, crazy motorists, villagers carrying loads on their backs, a crashed bus- a small stone wall kept it from going over the cliff edge apparently... glad our driver was not so daring. One of the things we enjoyed seeing was the brightly colored and differently decorated Nepali cargo trucks... a riot of color, images of various deities, trucking mottos ("drive slow, live longer" "love all, hate none"), and even tinsel!

We arrived around 2pm and used our guidebook to find the hotel run by Seeing Hands contact person here, Kul. He was increadibly helpful in answering our various questions (how often is the power out, where do we get water, when do we see the clinic, etc...etc...etc), and he showed us the cozy apartment we'll call home for the next month or so. It is a lovely space with the most comfortable bed ever. Nice wallhangings, a little kitchen, a clean bathroom (very much a treat in these parts... no, really it is), and the most beautiful mountain views in every direction... loads of windows. In fact, we sat in bed this morning having mint tea with a gorgeous view of the Himalayas.

We spent our day today settling in and walking around the lakeside district of Pokhara. Later on we'll probably have a tour of the clinic, and tomorrow we'll meet our students.

Due to a petrol (gas) shortage/conflict, we've delayed our trip to Chitwan National Park until next week... however, Andy is nearly wetting himself with excitement over the prospect of swimming with elephants!

More later.

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"Many people wonder what their life purpose is. They spend hundreds of dollars on books, astrological charts, and coaches to try to figure it out. Another path is simply to follow the call when it arises, even if it seems odd or unreasonable. By doign so, we learn to trust, and eventually we discover the purpose of our life. Are you willing to take that risk?" (Joey Garcia)

Everest, yak's balls and the godess of smallpox

Just a quick entry to let you all know we have arrived safe and sound in Nepal. After a long layover in Hong Kong, spent mainly snacking on various types of Chinese treats, we flew over the Himalayas with strong turbulence and lightning storms to land Tuesday night in Kathmandu.
Our first day here (yesterday) was spent firstly getting ourselves sorted out, and then getting out and about in Kathmandu. Highlights included a beautiful walled garden where we sipped posh tea in a quiet enclave away from the crazy hustle and bustle of the streets outside, and then a chaotic trip to Kathmandu's Durbar Square. This is a hugh temple complex in the center of town, complete with traffic, beggers, street sellers, cows and people ... oh so many people. The site is a Unesco World Heritage Site, but it is still most definitely used to this day. Got to put a little tika (red dot) on the Ganesh statue in his temple, and ring the prayer bells! However, it didn't take long to get completely overwhelmed by it all.

Up early today, getting dressed by flashlight as there is only electricity for parts of the day, to catch our once in a lifetime flight around Mount Everest and the Himalayas - yes we did it! Dropped some serious cash to do it (thank you again mum and dad!) but my goodness, what a site!!!!

Spent this afternoon at the Swayambhunath temple complex, a huge Buddhist site with spectacular statues and temples and lots of monkeys too ... including a temple to Hariti, the goddess of smallpox. Also braved the crazy traffic again to find the toothache god' s shrine in the middle of grand central (Kathmandu style!!!). On the way to the site, we passed the cremation ghats by the side of the sacred river where Hindu funeral cremations occur.

Already had some great food - including momos (fried and steamed dumplings) sitting at a rooftop cafe overlooking the Buddhist temple site, and yak cheese balls (Not yak's balls with cheese) at a garden cafe in Thamel!
We head off to Pokhara tomorrow .... more to follow!!!

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"It's true; life really is generous to those who pursue their personal legend." (Paulo Coelho)