Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Ahu, Moai, and Hotu Matua

So the tour of the island was brilliant! Our guide, Sabrina, was lovely and had loads of knowledge about the sites and island history. She was familiar with all the theories around the history of different places and also offered her own thoeries (these usually seemed more plausible than those put forth by the "experts").

Our first stop on the tour was an unrestored ahu (platform) called Ahu Hanga Tee. Part of the islands history involves a civil war and the toppling of each of the two tribes moai (statues), so this is one of those toppled and not put to right again. It's really good to see the moai both ways as it gives a clearer picture of the history. Our second site was similar in its history and was called Ahu One Makihi.



Next was a truly spectacular site. 15 Restored Moai stood on their platform side by side at Ahu Tongariki. Great photo opportunities here. From this site, if you look inland, you can see the quarry where 95% of the moai were carved. Many can be seen in their partially finished state... a hillside of human carved stone... it is amazing to wonder how they moved them from the quarry to their various places on the island.


We went to the quarry itself next. We got to see moai in all different phases of construction: partially carved, laying down, standing, just about finished... Sabrina explained how they carved the statues... this much is known. How they were transported is very much a mystery. She filled us in on all the ideas around the moai transportation, but none of them seem to very plausible and all adds up to mystery. We brought our own lunch, so Sabrina discreetly instructs us on how to go inside the crater (the quarry is on the edge of a volcano) while she takes the others for their lunch. There is a reed filled lake inside, and some moai around the edges. It is serene, peaceful, and magical.


We go to Ahu Te Pito Kura next. This site has two important features. The first is a moai which was the largest to ever stand on the island, and, while now toppled, it was still erect when Captain Cook landed here. The second is a magnetic stone which is said to have been brought by Hotu Matua, the island's founder. It does, in fact, mess with Sabrina's compass as she holds it up to the stone.

We end our day at Anakena beach, a lovely white sand spot beneath a coconut grove. Located here are two more ahu and some moai. No, Sabrina informs the group, this is not for the sake of the tourists. Anakena is a sacred spot as the legendary founder of the island and the Rapa Nui people, Hotu Matua, landed here.


After a cup of joe back at the cabin, we head into the village for a grocery shop. Our plan is to have a nice meal of bread, cheese, tomatoes, and wine in the cabin tonight. That is exactly what we did... lovely!

Today is yesterday's opposite as yesterday was warm, sunny, and perfect for a day out. Today the rain is pretty much torrential and we have been indoors the whole time. It makes for a very cozy environment as we sit in our cabin watching the waves crash against the rocks at the shoreline below. Perhaps it will let up enough to venture out in a bit... perhaps not. Either way, this island seems to have cast some sort of spell on us... and that is just fine.

2 comments:

  1. I hope you got tons of photos! I don't want the shortened version at OG - I want to see everything! Enjoy the cozy accomodations now...if I remember correctly, some of your future accomodations are closer to tree forts!
    Travel well my friends! XXOO

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  2. We love you Kelly - we're halfway thru our nightly bottle of deliciously cheap Chilean red wine and so can be a bit mushy - thank you for all your comments and encouragement - we appreciate it!!!

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